Emerging Europe’s tariff test
February 5, 2025
Will parliamentary election bring a new dawn to Kosovo?
February 6, 2025
Hollywood is wearing Moldova. From Katy Perry to Drew Barrymore’s co-host, Moldovan fashion is making its mark.
“I simply LOVE this top and trousers to go with it!!” exclaimed Sunny Anderson, co-host of Drew Barrymore’s TV show, on her Instagram page. She had just appeared before two and a half million American viewers wearing a sharp pink blouse with puffy sleeves and a pointy collar. She stood out, and people noticed.
That blouse was made on the other side of the ocean, in Moldova. Julia Allert’s brand is bold, unconventional, and unapologetic—a bit like the architecture in her city, Chișinău.
In recent years, many more Moldovan designers have burst onto the scene, as if a lid had been lifted off a boiling pot. It’s as though Moldova has been waiting to show the world what it’s capable of.
This movement has deep roots. Fashion manufacturing has long been a significant, if understated, sector in Moldova. But now, it’s stepping into the spotlight.
High-end brands like Moncler, Emporio Armani, Max Mara, and Luisa Spagnoli manufacture their clothing in Moldova. While Moldovan grandmothers sew for these global labels, a new generation of young Moldovans is building their own brands—and they already have plenty to show for it.
“If I did it, then anyone can,” Julia Allert laughs during a video call. She launched her fashion brand during the Covid-19 pandemic with, “a crazy idea, two sewing machines, and two seamstresses” in a small atelier in Moldova’s capital.
Just a few years later, her business is thriving. “We sell 17,000 pieces a year,” she says. “Ninety-five per cent of that is shipped abroad to more than 50 countries.”
Allert believes Moldovan fashion is unique. “We are incomparable,” she says. She credits this distinctiveness to a mix of influences from the East, West, and even Asia, thanks to Moldova’s proximity to Turkey. “We see the world in these colours.”
“Usually, foreigners are impressed and surprised by what they see here,” says Marina Lapușneanu, a Smart Manufacturing Advisor at the USAID-funded Future Technologies Activity. American support, through USAID, has played a crucial role in promoting Moldovan fashion by funding events and training designers.
Post-war Soviet clothing
The roots of Moldova’s fashion industry go back to Soviet times. After World War II devastated the region, Soviet leaders established clothing factories in Moldova to supply the entire union. Moldovans, already skilled in knitting and sewing, were tasked with keeping the rest of the Soviet Union warm.
An impressive industry grew out of this initiative. At first, factories produced simple, durable clothing. Over time, more diverse styles emerged—suits for men, dresses for women.
By the late Soviet era, 80 per cent of Moldova’s textile production was being exported to other parts of the union, bringing valuable know-how and equipment to the country. Today’s young designers are building on that legacy.
From post-War clothing to high fashion
Ionel, the country’s oldest factory, opened in 1945 and is still operating today. While the factory has its own brand, it also manufactures clothing for world-class names like Moncler.
Located behind Chișinău’s central market, the five-story factory buzzes with activity. Rows of seamstresses work quietly, cutting, sewing, and stamping buttons. Stacks of fabric and finished garments fill the space.
Ionel started off as a post-war Soviet factory but now has its own brand, manufactures for big European fashion brands, and supports local fashion designers. Photo by Iurie Gandrabura.
“All this goes to Germany,” says Inga Gavrilița, head of engineering at Ionel, pointing to dozens of trousers hanging neatly on racks. The factory also produces for French and Italian brands. Collaborations with these renowned labels helped Ionel survive the chaotic early 1990s after the Soviet Union collapsed, explains director Tamara Luchian.
Luchian has been with Ionel for 52 years, starting as a seamstress and working her way up to director. “If I didn’t love my job, I wouldn’t have lasted this long,” she says. “I grew up in the countryside, where my parents taught me the value of hard work.”
She hopes all of Europe will recognise Ionel and the hardworking women behind its success.
A Kardashian wearing Moldovan boots
Another rising Moldovan fashion star is Fidan Novruzova, a semi-finalist for the prestigious LVMH Prize for emerging designers—the highest honor a Moldovan designer has received to date.
Born and raised in Moldova with Azerbaijani roots, Novruzova is best known for her rough, square-toed boots that add height and effortless style. Her creations have been worn by celebrities like Katy Perry, Bella Hadid, Kourtney Kardashian, and Chloë Sevigny.
The fashion world has embraced her distinctive aesthetic. Nylon magazine described her designs as “familiar, yet slightly removed from the norm, with an oddity that resonates with fashion-forward women.”
In 11th grade, Novruzova decided to pursue a career in fashion. “I wasn’t very good at it, nor did I know much about it,” she laughs. “But I was very driven.”
Her secret? A “healthy delusion” that drives her forward, balanced by a backup plan that keeps her grounded. Starting her business in Moldova gave her a unique edge. “If I’d started in Paris or London, I don’t think I could have set it all up. In Moldova, I can easily manufacture my clothing, thanks to the big factories like Ionel.”
A Japanese favourite
In an old building in Chișinău, the small fashion studio of OK Kino is creating waves. A Japanese fashion journalist, Elie Inoue, praised the brand in WWD Japan, describing its designs as “minimalist and wearable, with a high level of pattern technology and a neutral aesthetic”.
The studio is run by partners Darya Golneva and Denis Caunov, who often work with silk. After living in Italy, Darya returned to Moldova to be with Denis. Together, they secured government funding to purchase basic equipment and launched their first runway collection in Georgia last year.
Their pieces, described by Darya as “a bit avant-garde but wearable”, are versatile enough for both daily wear and festive events with the right accessories.
“Childhood is a big influence for us,” she explains. “In Moldova, there’s so much folk inspiration to draw from.” Starting their business in Moldova allowed them to avoid the bureaucratic red tape they might have faced elsewhere.
It was Darya Golneva’s dream to have a small studio in an old building. Photo by Marian Männi.
The future of Moldovan fashion
Moldovan fashion is having a moment.
With its rich history, skilled artisans, and bold young designers, the country is stepping confidently into the global spotlight.
From celebrities in Hollywood to fashionistas in Japan, people are beginning to notice: Moldova is more than ready to make its mark on the world stage.
This content has been produced in collaboration with a partner organisation through our Global Visibility Programme. Our programme helps companies and organisations boost their digital presence and strengthen the thought leadership of their experts. Find out more here.
